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Wednesday, July 18, 2012

It's time to end our climate denial and invest in fashion's hardy perennials


If you thought that dressing against the laws of climate logic was a uniquely British tic, I'm sorry to disappoint you. News has reached the fashion desk that other nations also breach all codes of rational thinking in this area.

It's true that the British, as in so many feats of derring-do, lead the field by wearing clothes conceived for summer in Acapulco even when it's February in Newcastle. Who will ever erase those pictures of the Aintree guests in their strapless dresses, Louboutin sandals and goosebumps back in April?

The pursuit of fashion at all costs means that hardiness is not confined to the north of Britain, however. You'll find plenty of climate deniers in Cheltenham or Plymouth. More shockingly, it turns out that the impulse to wear clothes that have no relevance to local weather conditions is universal.

IN PICTURES: Trending: Trench coats

Daniela Falcão, editor of Brazilian Vogue , says coats are a big seller in a São Paulo winter. Not that they have winter. Not like ours. "But it gets so boring wearing summer clothes year-round that girls here wear coats anyway. Even if it's 19 degrees," explains Falcão. And we all know that to wear a lightweight sun dress in New York is to dice with pneumonia, thanks to the Arctic blasts of air-conditioning. "In a Manhattan summer, you're never dressed in the right clothes," says shoe designer Tabitha Simmons, who lives there. "It's either melting on the streets or freezing inside."

This useless state of affairs urgently requires attention. For one thing, it's miserable having to shiver/swelter one's way through life. For another, ignoring the realities of local climate encourages designers to do the same, creating clothes that don't really work for anyone.

What's required is a clear-eyed look at the facts. In geographical speak, Britain is a temperate island. Fashion translation: it's time to rethink your clothing budget. If, on aggregate, there are 10 days a year, maximum, when wearing a spindly-strapped dress is comfortable, then clearly it makes more sense to re-allocate your spend.

Focusing on clothes you can wear eight-to-10 months out of 12 might sound boringly sensible but, by putting as much energy into choosing the work-horses of your wardrobe as you do an impulsive cheesecloth smock dress, those rational purchases should become enduring sources of pleasure. And, while items that work year-round tend to be predictable - mid-weight trousers, feather-soft knits - there's nothing dull about the details that make them modern and chic, which by definition are constantly evolving. Here is a list to help you on your way. I was going to say it's about fashion maths, but really, it's not so much about fashion as about style.

The transitional coat
A transitional-weather staple. More robust than the trench, which means that you won't freeze when winter hits proper. Bernadine pea coat £425 Tory Burch; toryburch.co.uk (top)

The updated cardie
We're big believers in layering here - and the cardie as the bedrock of that. Eric Bompard spices up a faithful with the pretty lace back detail.
Lace-back cardie £230 Eric Bompard; eric-bompard.com (out August, top)

The wow-factor trousers
Printed trousers can take a look from just fine to sublime. A rich brocade pair cut at the ankle is on the money for now. Brocade trousers £35 Marks & Spencer Woman; marksandspencer.com (top)

The slinky shirt
A fabulous printed silk shirt is indispensable, whatever the weather or occasion. Add layers - cardie, jumper, blazer - as appropriate, or take it into the evening with a statement necklace.
Polly cotton crepe shirt £100 J Crew; net-a-porter.com (above)

The skirt with a twist
Lace shows no sign of going away. A classic pencil skirt in a thickish lace will do your wardrobe service, year in, year out. Albany skirt £450 Zoe Jordan; zoe-jordan.com (above)

The all-season boots
Ankle boots can be a year-round staple if you skip black for brown. These slim-cut suede pairs are flattering on the leg and will look even better with age.
Peat suede Chelsea boot £259 Penelope Chilvers; penelopechilvers.com (above)

The hardworking scarf
Nippy summer nights, wintry mornings, rainy days - the scarf is, hands down, the hardest working piece in your wardrobe. Pick one in a shade or print you really love, as it'll get endless air play.
Silk copper print scarf £165 Weston Scarves; liberty.co.uk (above)

The lightweight tote
A shopper navigates both seasons with ease: it's the ideal weight for a summer bag, but roomy enough for stashing winter's arsenal of gloves, scarves and brolly.
Fleur croco tote £135 Whistles; whistles.co.uk (above)


The perky dress
The yellow makes it inescapably summer wear, but this dress would work equally well in autumn under a dark cardigan or jacket.
Miss Lily dress £542 DVF; matchesfashion.com (above)

The rain-proof shoes
Why does the Duchess of Cambridge stick religiously to her nude LK Bennett heels? Because the patent means they're indestructible in the rain. At least, that's why we're picked these chic LK Bennett patent-finish heels.
Denna shoes £210 LK Bennett; lkbennett.com (above)

Words: Phong Luu


Via: It's time to end our climate denial and invest in fashion's hardy perennials

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